A taste of Mexico for breakfast – Cartel del Taco debuts a morning menu with conchas and chilaquiles
Every day since opening their first Cartel del Taco in Hawthorne five years ago, co-owners Marco Ramirez and Erick Martinez have been asked the same question – “When are you opening for breakfast?” At long last, the wait is over. From Saturday August 30, the much-loved taqueria will officially serve Mexican-style breakfasts, and they’re doing it with all the flair, flavour and heart that Brisbane has come to know and love from the pair.
Sure, eggs Benedict has its place, but have you tried huevos rancheros? According to Marco, Brisbane diners have traditionally been creatures of habit when it comes to breakfast, which is why Cartel del Taco held off until now. “People are more willing to try new things these days – more open to experiencing what breakfast looks like in Mexico City,” he explains.
So, what does breakfast look – and perhaps more importantly, taste – like in Mexico City? At Cartel del Taco, it’s familiar favourites alongside bold new discoveries. You’ll find morning staples such as breakfast burritos and a Mexican-style ‘breaky burger’ as well as chilaquiles rojos and verdes, which is essentially breakfast nachos topped with chicken or an egg, huevos rancheros and a seriously indulgent birria toastie that swaps the tortilla for thick slices of bread, delivering the same rich, comforting flavours as the taco version loved at lunch and dinner.
The undisputed hero, however, is the concha – Mexico’s most beloved pan dulce (sweet bread). Baked fresh on-site by Cartel’s skilled sous chefs and panaderos, Sebastian Daza and Jaris Ortiz, these pillowy, shell-topped buns are a daily staple in Mexico but unknown territory in Brisbane. In fact, Marco tells us that Cartel is believed to be the first restaurant in Australia to handcraft conchas in-house – making this launch a milestone moment. To celebrate, they’re giving away 60 free conchas (matcha or strawberry) with every coffee purchase on opening day.
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Behind this sweet addition lies a story as rich as the dough itself. Jaris, an artisan baker, carries a family legacy that stretches back to the 1960s in Saltillo, Mexico, where her grandfather, Rodolfo Aleman, became a maestro panadero (master baker) at just 16 years old. With generations of knowledge in her hands, Jaris has brought her heritage to Brisbane, sharing traditions and love for baking passed down through her family. The humble concha also holds a special place in Marco’s memories, too. “My Grandma used to give them to me,” he told us, before adding “we used to dip it in the hot chocolate.”
The breakfast offering doesn’t stop there. Dishes like matcha tamal and enmoladas sit alongside tropical fruit, smoothies, freshly squeezed juices and Cartel’s own coffee – giving Brisbane every excuse to swap avo toast for something more adventurous.
The passion Marco and Erick have for their homeland is evident in every detail at Cartel del Taco. It’s not just about what’s on the plate – though that’s certainly the star – but the atmosphere that frames it. Chairs, tables and plates have all been personally sourced from Mexico, each piece chosen to carry a little of their culture across the ocean. The result is a setting that feels as authentic as the food itself.
“We want to transport people to Mexico City,” Marco says. And with conchas in hand, Brisbane mornings just got a whole lot sweeter. For now, the breakfast menu is exclusive to Cartel del Taco’s Hawthorne location, with New Farm to follow later this year. And Gold Coast pals, keep your peepers peeled as there may be one heading your way oh-so-soon.