After a three-and-a-half-year stint in the heart of Woolloongabba, produce-driven neo-bistro Clarence will soon pull up stumps and relocate to one of Brisbane’s buzziest dining strips. Come August, you’ll find Clarence in slick new digs on Fish Lane, where the team will continue to serve its heralded menu of sustainable sustenance, with some exciting additions that’ll tantalise long-time fans and new.
From the moment it opened, Clarence was a restaurant unlike any other in Brisbane. Though inspired by the humble neighbourhood bistros of Paris, Clarence served food on par with Brisbane’s heavy hitters, boasting a freewheeling creative approach spurred by a constantly shifting supply of of-the-moment produce.
But, as good as Ben McShane and Matt Kuhnemann’s fare is (and it is good – just ask most of the chefs in Brisbane), Clarence’s heritage-listed home between The Gabba and Mater Hospital has proven to be a tough spot to build momentum.
“Some nights, we’d be packed down and done by 8:00 pm,” says Matt. “No one else is coming in by 8:00 pm.”
“Brisbane’s really tricky,” adds Ben. “Three and a half years ago I was probably a little bit more optimistic that people would go out of their way to go to a neighbourhood restaurant that’s still ten minutes from the CBD. You realise how sensitive it is to being in a critical area that people know how to get to, know where to park and how to catch public transport.”
So, at the end of July, Clarence will move out of Clarence Corner and head one suburb over to South Brisbane. This time, the team will be planting roots on Fish Lane, one of the city’s more high-profile dining districts.
The strip – home to established players like Southside, Maeve Wine and Julius Pizzeria on one end, and Lune Croissanterie and Midtown on the other – is rivalled only by James Street in terms of profile. Clarence will open halfway along the laneway at 51 Fish, a new retail nexus at the base of the Croft & Cremorne apartment development near Merivale Street, and will form part of a new wave of dining destinations opening on Fish Lane this year alongside Detour, the revitalised Fox Hotel, and other soon-to-be announced venues.
But prestige wasn’t the driving force behind Ben and Matt’s decision to plant a flag on Fish Lane. The precinct’s easily accessible location and proximity to cultural landmarks made the perfect spot to present Clarence’s offering to a broader audience.
“On paper, I’d say Fish Lane is as good as you can get,” says Ben. “That entire precinct, the bars, the other restaurants – they all vibe and it’s got a nicer, more authentic mix of different venues than any other place in the city. I think it ticks every box that you could look for when you’re trying to find that perfect location.”
Work is currently underway transforming the corner site into a slick 60-seat restaurant that blends traces of Clarence’s simple and warm aesthetic with the site’s polished-concrete floors, high ceilings and big street- and laneway-facing windows. Alkot Studio – the team behind ēmmē and Pilloni’s fetching designs – is working with Ben and Matt on the restaurant’s look, with upholstered green banquette seats, dark woods and earthy tones to feature.
So, aside from the fresh digs, what can Fish Lane foodies expect from Clarence 2.0?
“Philosophically, working really close with those small suppliers and that produce-driven element, that stays,” says Ben. “The core is the same, but we’re adding a few more accessible items and a bigger menu, trying to make [Clarence] more of a restaurant for everybody.”
With Clarence’s ongoing commitment to working with local small-scale growers and farmers reaffirmed, Ben gives us a bit of insight into some of the menu changes he and Matt are experimenting with.
“To be that more casual, breezy restaurant, there are a few additional areas that we’re bolstering,” reveals Ben. “So there’ll be a large cold and raw seafood element. The entrees and the mains will stay similar, but then we’ll add a few large formats – like a whole coral trout or a large-format steak. Stuff like that.”
On the bar front, expect Clarence’s all-Australian wine list to grow alongside a bolstered cocktail contingent.
At this stage, Clarence will operate in Woolloongabba until its lease ends in late July. After which, assuming everything goes to plan, the team will pack down the old site, move into the new one and open to the public in early-to-mid August. While there’s a lot of hard work ahead, it’s clear that Ben and Matt are relishing the opportunity to showcase their culinary chops on a bigger stage and offer something to a multitude of customers.
“It’s about servicing the area,” says Ben. “What do people want before they go to a show? What do people want if they’re living upstairs? We’re a once a month or once every couple of months restaurant [in Woolloongabba]. Here we want to be a place you can go to every week – or a lot more consistently.”
“The location gives the restaurant more flexibility,” adds Matt. “You can have a better platform to stand on and show people what you can do, rather than feel very confined in what you can do at the current Clarence site. Here, we’re going to feel more confident to step forward with some things.”
Clarence is set to open on Fish Lane in August – keep your eyes peeled for more information in the coming weeks.