Clarence Corner, the junction of Stanley Street and Annerley Road in Woolloongabba, has always been a precinct of ebbs and flows.

Recent years have seen an influx of new-wave hot spots like Echo & Bounce and Can You Keep A Secret?, which have quickly cultivated strong local followings. Meanwhile, the revitalisation of The Princess Theatre invigorated Brisbane’s live-music scene, becoming a cultural institution overnight.

On the other side of the coin, however, beloved neo bistro Clarence recently instigated a move to Fish Lane to capitalise on the South Brisbane strip’s greater abundance of foot traffic.

Standing proud through it all, though, is C’est Bon. A pillar of Woolloongabba’s dining scene since it opened in 2008, the restaurant has evolved in tandem with the suburb’s own growth. The venue’s current custodian, chef Andy Ashby, hasn’t been afraid to tinker with C’est Bon’s composition, adding rooftop bar extension Ooh La La in 2021, thereby transforming the restaurant into a micro-precinct of its own.

But with his next move, Andy – as part of AW Hospitality, the group Andy co-founded in partnership with Steven and Jane Wilson of Wilvest Group – is looking to add something different to the streetscape, infusing Stanley Street with a bit of colour and some bold flavours via new Mexican-inspired pop-up restaurant Birria Boy.

After putting his hand up to take over Clarence’s old heritage digs, Andy first surveyed Brisbane’s dining scene to figure out what the city lacked most, and what made sense within the context of Clarence Corner.

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“We decided that we needed something a little bit more casual – more of a street-food vibe,” says Andy “I started putting the feelers out and I looked at what people were after – and it always came back to Mexican.

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“[Mexican is] not just a trend – it’s a staple cuisine that’s been around for a long, long time. I feel that you can build off that, you’ve just got to be able to tell a story and have a point of difference.”

The team has just put the finishing touches on an aesthetic refresher of the space, splashing a liberal coating of terracotta tones across the interior. Vivid illumination comes courtesy of some new neon light fixtures, while some art murals adorn the walls.

In terms of layout, the venue remains unchanged. The old Clarence Deli kitchen is now the taqueria, where diners will spy the team making masa tortillas from nixtamalized corn flour imported from Mexico. The old Vespa Pizza woodfire oven has been uncovered and reactivated, and forms the fiery centrepiece of the venue’s kitchen operations.

Over at the new burgundy-tiled bar, guests can perch and wax lyrical with the staff about the venue’s ample supply of artisanal tequila and mezcal.

“We literally just freshened the space – it didn’t need too much because it’s a beautiful heritage building already,” Andy tells us. “When you’re out on the streets of Mexico, you would see those terracotta colors coming through.”

With Birria Boy, Andy is exploring the cuisine of Mexico’s west coast, wielding woodfire techniques to deliver a tight menu that is a stylistic counterpoint to C’est Bon’s precise, artfully plated rendition of French-style fine dining.

“Mexican food is designed to be a bit messy and playful,” says the New Zealand-born chef. “Our rustic share-style concept also has a bit of Kiwiana, from where I’m from, because we love the whole do it yourself approach.”

As the venue’s name suggests, birria is a focal point of Birria Boy’s offering. Andy has popped three variations on his menu, one with 15-hour slow-cooked wagyu beef with jalapeno salsa, a second boasting woodfire-braised mushroom with Oaxaca cheese and mustard, and a more traditional expression with Meredith goat (butchered and marinated in house), green pico de gallo and goats cheese. All birria tacos are served on house-made yellow corn tortillas with a ramekin of consomme for dipping.

The menu also features two other taco varieties – confit duck carnitas and tempura-prawn tacos with tomatillo and cactus – plus a number of snacks like roasted corn ribs, rellenos (woodfired jalapeno stuffed with pork chorizo), yellowfin tuna belly tostadas and lamb al pastor skewers.

On the mains front, Birria Boy will serve a trio of share-style dishes, including pork neck with mole negro, butterflied chicken asado and tamale-style Murray cod wrapped in banana leaf – all served with house-made masa tortillas and sauces.

Birria Boy’s aforementioned collection of tequila, mezcal and agave spirits has been sourced from small growers across Mexico (though Beudi Agave, a locally made spirit from North Queensland, can also be found on the back bar). This range filters into a cocktail list encompassing margaritas and slushies, with a Mexican lager on tap – brewed in collaboration with Frenchies Brewery and Sea Legs Brewing Co. – on tap for the hop heads.

Once open, Birria Boy will open for dinner Thursday to Monday, with lunch service running Friday to Sunday. Andy hopes the concept will add a spark to Stanley Street’s dining offering, giving punters a welcoming place to pop in on a whim and locals solid takeaway option.

“Having a restaurant license until midnight, we want people to come around and park up for some cheeky margs after they’ve seen an incredible show at The Princess, before jumping in an Uber and taking off,” says Andy.

“If we can help them in terms of feeding people and making sure there’s a little bit more excitement happening down the strip, then it’s a win-win for everyone,” says Andy.

Birria Boy will operate through spring and summer – head to The Directory for operating hours and booking details.