Nowhere Espresso goes after dark with a new pizzeria and wine bar glow up

Kye Smith, Jade Endress and Trong Smith had big plans for Nowhere Espresso when they took over the business in September 2024.

The cafe, set inside a heritage Queenslander in the leafy backstreets of west Toowong, has been a brunch powerhouse for years. But Kye and Jade saw potential in the venue to become something more than just a morning destination.

“We knew early on that there was an opportunity to expand on it, it was just a matter of when,” reveals Kye. “You’ve got a fish and chip spot around the corner and a bowls club that’s only open three nights a week, so we knew there was a huge opportunity to open up for dinner.”

In order to evolve into the after-dark spot they envisioned, the trio first got serious about making some venue upgrades.

The heritage-listed Bell’s General Store building in which Nowhere Espresso resides has sheltered a number of businesses over the years. Originally, the cafe’s kitchen operated from a cosy nook enclosed by a barn door at one end of the building.

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Boasting a 2-metre roof height and only a tiny split-system air conditioner for ventilation, the poky alcove wasn’t suited to be the engine room the new owners needed to power a full menu revamp. So, the trio leased the two-bedroom house behind the cafe, connecting the two structures and installing a large kitchen in what was once the domicile’s formal living room.

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Nowhere Espresso debuted its evening offering in late April, with Toowong locals turning out in droves. From the jump, the team knew Nowhere at night would focus on Italian cuisine, with pizza, pasta and wine central to the menu. The crew also knew who they’d call on to orchestrate the newly built kitchen – enter Rome-born Alessio Fantera, a former sous chef of 1889 Enoteca.

“Alessio and I previously worked together down on the Gold Coast at a restaurant called Love Italy,” says Kye. “The pizzas were good and everything was made fresh on site. As soon as I knew this is what we were doing, I reached out.”

Nowhere Espresso’s pizzeria menu weighs in at around six entrees, six pastas, seven pizzas and four desserts. The offering hews traditional, with light snacks such as cacio e pepe arancini, confit-tomato bruschetta and house-made garlic bread leading into plates of spaghetti vongole, fettuccine ragu and rigatoni carbonara – the latter a must-try dish for fans of classic Roman-style carbonara.

“Coming into it, Alessio said, ‘I’ll be your head chef, but you better let me put a proper carbonara on,’” says Kye, with a laugh. “Also, the ragu is a highlight and the most popular pasta – it takes a 48-hour process to make.”

As for pizzas, you have tried-and-true options like the diavola and capricciosa, as well as more unconventional choices topped with gorgonzola and Fred’s Alchemy hot honey, mortadella and burrata, and zucchini and prawns. The pizza base is sturdy yet pliable, capable of holding toppings without risk of flop.

“There’s three different flours that go into the dough,” reveals Kye. “We wanted that traditional style – thick crust, nicely airy but just with a slightly crispier bottom.”

Nowhere Espresso’s beverage list is wine-driven, with a selection of mostly Australian drops available by the glass and bottle. Clare Valley fianos share menu space with shiraz from the Grampians, Yarra Valley pinot noirs and Tasmanian chardonnays, with weightier gear – think French champagne, barolos and Australian reserve drops – also available.

“We wanted to have a bit more of an upmarket selection here,” says Kye. “You’re not forced to spend $250 on a wine – there are $58 bottles on there – but we’re just giving that option to locals, so they can come down and buy a nice quality bottle if they want.”

The brief for the cocktail list was fun and refreshing, with classic mojitos, spritzes, chilli margaritas, pina coladas and espresso martinis in the mix alongside a clutch of mainstream beers.

All told, this new era for Nowhere Espresso is an exciting development for a suburb deprived of easy-access nighttime options. Though he may be biased, Kye believes Nowhere’s new menu stacks up with some of Brisbane’s best – and he might not be alone in thinking that.

“The food is some of the best quality Italian food I’ve had in Brisbane,” says Kye. “We had someone come in the other day who said Alessio’s tiramisu is the best she’s had outside of Rome.”

Nowhere Espresso is now open for breakfast, lunch and dinner – head to The Directory for operating hours and other important information.