Traditional Sicilian cooking finds a home in West End at Don Gino
Brisbane’s love affair with Italian cuisine deepened further last week with the opening of brand-new trattoria and wine bar Don Gino. Inspired by the flavours of Sicily, Don Gino is plating up seafood-laden pasta dishes, arancini filled with parmesan cream and meatballs swimming in sugo alongside a wine list loaded with Sicilian drops. Keen for a peek inside? A warm welcome awaits …
How well do you know Sicilian cuisine? If you’re a fan of Italian food in general, there’s a good chance you’re well acquainted with the regional specialty, even if you didn’t know it.
Marco La Perna, head chef and owner of West End’s new Sicilian-inspired trattoria and wine bar Don Gino, says that many dishes that originated in his homeland have become cornerstones of what is now considered to be quintessential Italian fare.
“Arancini – everybody knows arancini,” says Marco. “They come from Sicily originally. Or cannoli, for example, they are Sicilian, too. A lot of pasta dishes, usually the kinds with seafood, come from the south of Italy or Sicily.”
Marco is one to know. The chef has been in kitchens all his life, stretching back to his childhood spent in his father’s restaurant in Sicily. Since those formative years, Marco has worked across the Mediterranean before arriving in Brisbane three years ago, overseeing the kitchen at Fratelli in Paddington before striking out on his own with Don Gino.
Taking over the timber-lined space previously occupied by Bar Hugo on Hardgrave Road, Marco has transformed the site into a lively neighbourhood eatery where generous hospitality, exceptional produce and simple, carefully executed dishes take centre stage.
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Beyond the suitability of the site itself, Marco fell in love with West End’s community vibe – a feeling reminiscent of his home.
“I wanted something cosy and homey,” Marco reveals. “[West End] reminds me of how a little village in Sicily would operate – where neighbours are kind to each other, where they talk to each other and where they help each other.
“Don Gino is inspired by the classic trattorias you’d find in a small Sicilian village. A place where people feel welcome, where they love to visit for a glass of wine or dinner, or even stay longer for a chat.”
With years of experience under his belt, Marco is well versed in the fundamentals of Sicilian cooking. He’s putting his knowledge to good use at Don Gino, sourcing a large portion of his restaurant’s larder from Italy in order to deliver a menu with Southern Italian inflections that is as close to the genuine article as possible.
Subscribe for updates“I wanted to represent something that is close to home cooking, very traditional, without cutting any corners,” says Marco of Don Gino’s offering. “I wanted to keep the classics alive and keep the dishes the way they were supposed to be.”
The menu is divided into sections, starting with appetizers like panelle (Sicilian chickpea fritters with lemon mayo) and salumi plates and moving swiftly towards starters like fried calamari, arancini (filled with bolognese and mushroom, or parmesan cream), mussels Siciliana and crumbed eggplant sticks.
The portions increase with share boards (piled high with focaccia, cured meats, cheeses, burrata and olives) and a range of dishes labelled Nonna’s Favourites – think lasagna al forno, purpetti (Southern Italian meatballs) in sugo and gnocchi pumadoru.
A selection of pasta dishes and mains includes the likes of slow-cooked tagliatelle ragu, seafood marinara, spinach-and-ricotta-filled raviolo, the Don Gino (a pasta dish boasting sausage, eggplant and salted ricotta), lamb shanks and red-wine-braised beef cheeks. There’s also a tight selection of red and white pizzas, plus desserts like cannoli, tiramisu and affogato.
As for drinks, Don Gino’s carefully curated wine list is a trove of more than 30 Italian and Sicilian labels, from big, bold reds to crisp and aromatic whites. Cocktails are also a big feature, with classic concoctions (spritzes, negronis and more) on deck alongside a selection of imported Italian soft drinks.
Though only open for a week, Don Gino has already endeared itself to a large contingent of West End locals. The restaurant was pumping across its opening weekend, with Marco and his team overwhelmed by the immediate outpouring of support.
“The community showed up,” says Marco. “All of the neighbourhood showed up and I loved it.”
Looking ahead, Marco hopes Don Gino settles into a consistent favourite – one beloved as much for its service style as its food.
“We might be a little loud sometimes, but we’re definitely generous with our portions, we’re warm, welcoming and genuinely care about every guest that walks through the door,” says Marco.
Don Gino is now open to the public – you can find operating hours and contact details in The Directory.
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